Days on the beach

Wednesday – Last nights sunset – very pretty.
Woke this morning to the sound of the waves crashing and rain on the roof. Just yesterday someone told us it never rains here in December. So much for never. Didn’t last long but made for a beautiful sun rise.
I think we’ll have a warm humid day. The air is sticky already. And the water is kind of a dark army green color – not pretty.
A couple of days ago, before margaritas, we drove as far south on the beach. Next to the campground are a lot of houses in all states of repair or as The Driver calls them “arrested decay”. Here are a couple. This is one of the nicest ones, appears to be newly built and painted.
This one is built up on stilts and doesn’t look like anyone has been taking care of it.
And this used to be a swimming pool that was built on the beach side of the house. Some storm in the past destroyed it and again the house looks abandoned.
Beyond the houses are a lot of open air restaurants. And they were pretty busy. Three of them had strolling bands playing for the people.
And of course the little stands selling???
On down the beach we went till we came to a breakwater with lots of families out on it fishing and just enjoying the day.
One group was playing soccer with a beach ball in the sand. Others were sitting around playing and listening to music.
We followed the road inland and came to a little village that backed up to an estuary that was full of colorful pangas. And for every five boats there was a little restaurant selling, camaron (shrimp) , pescado (fish), filete (filet of fish) and gazolina.Interesting combination.

here were all kinds of birds there just waiting. The garza, blue heron and something brown with a long bright orange beak. Need to get a picture of it. And the inevitable vehicle with the big speaker.
The lady of this house was selling bread.
From there we got back on the beach and drove north. Again came to a very popular place for fishermen and their families. This is the week before Christmas so a lot of people are off work and enjoying their time with their families.
Watched as one two-wheel drive pickup got stuck in the sand and had to be pulled/pushed out. Even with Willie in four-wheel drive he was groaning and fishtailing. What were those guys thinking? Trying to impress their buxom girl friends I guess.
The we came across an old red car stopped in the middle of the trail. It wouldn’t start so Bill Got out his trusty portable battery charger out of the back of Willie and got them started right up. Making friends. Stopped to watch an old man in his gray shirt and slacks and ball cap fish with a net. He’d throw it out then slowly pull it back in.

He said he was fishing for bait. Didn’t seem to be catching much though. Stopped and talked to a man and his very pregnant wife.
He was fishing and she was relaxing. He explained that they came out to enjoy the day. If he caught anything it was good luck. While talking to them a white truck came by selling strawberries and cream and ice cream. He was getting a lot of buyers.
Saw one really, really dirty SUV with this written on his back window “No es tierra. Es protector solar” translates to “It’s not dirt it is solar protection.” Thought that was pretty funny.
Everyone is so friendly. And lots of laughter, music and good times. Everyone from old men and women to babies. Whole families having a great, inexpensive afternoon. Surprisingly enough there were a lot of ATVs there too – running up and down the beach and over the sand dunes. Some with up to six people on them.

Arriving at Las Glorias

Leaving El Fuerte we took the other road back to MX15. The one that took us right into Los Mochis. Much better road – most of the way – it went through several small towns which is always interesting. Saw some wonderful OLD trees along the way.
So big around. Lots of farming. The inevitable cows and goats and food stands along the way.
Only stayed on toll road for a little ways – the last couple of stretches of this trip we’ve managed to avoid a couple of toll booths. Hooray! Stopped at a supermercado to buy wrapped candy as we knew that on one section of the road to Las Glorias the kids come running to the road when they see an RV. Sure enough – got rid of a whole bag.
The road kind of wanders through the countryside. Share it with lots of farm equipment who are never in a hurry and always end up behind them when the road is too narrow to pass safely. Really get to watch the scenery.
Got to Las Glorias and made the turn onto the big divided street –
would you believe it is still not repaired. This time we got to go down it a couple of blocks before we had to turn towards the beach and finish the journey on the sand.
But they’ve been using it enough that by now it is pretty hard packed, not like last year.
We’re staying at Mr. Moro again.
Really nice place and empty – only two other rigs here and no one in the hotel. (read in the Mexican paper that tourism is down 40% this year. Fear and the economy I guess. Too bad.) Horiatio the manager even remembers us. He wondered where the Alfa was. They have a good restaurant here, went there for dinner a couple of nights ago and I had two margaritas – never again. Spent most of yesterday in bed. Even the waves were making too much noise! Didn’t even want to look at the computer. Better today so will add more later about our trip up and down the beach.

El Fuerte - Our days there

Get a drink and put your feet up this is a long one. We kept pretty busy while in El Fuerte. One day we went for a slow boat ride on the river. We were picked up at the tour office and driven down to the Indian village where the boat was stored. Our guide hooked it up to his suburban and away we went to the river. Backed the truck into the water and unhooked the boat. We got in and started our slow trip back towards town. No motor, just oars. At least he was rowing with the current. Kind of neat and sure quiet. Saw lots of birds but most were too far away to get a decent picture of. A blue Heron They call this a Garza think its an Ibis We made one stop along the river and hiked up into the hills to see some petroglyphs. The trail up. Very interesting. Just a couple of many. According to the historians there has been some type of Indian village in the area for over 3,000 years. The hill they are on was considered sacred and the elders would go up there and use peyote among other things. Nope we didn’t get to do anything but look. Back in the boat we passed these Indian women washing their clothes in the river. Back in town we visited the museum. It is a replica of the old fort from which the town got its name. Built in basically the same area up on top of a little hill next to the river. Lots of interesting information about the region and town. A couple of not connect things that caught my eye were an old electric bookkeeping machine like I used to run when I first got a job in a bank right out of high school – IN A MUSEUM – what does that say about me. And an oil painting of an old man’s eyes. It was beautiful. There are a couple of REALLY nice hotels in town. Went in and looked them over. The most spectacular one I didn’t have my camera with me –gasp!- but it was like going into a museum of all the art in Mexico. Spectacular. It was a 300 year old hacienda restored. The other hotel was more modern but still has a claim to the olden time. Legend has it that at one time on that site there was a home built by Señor de la Vega. So? Well he was the father of ZORRO!!!! Supposedly the young Zorro lived there until he was ten years old. So of course the hotel makes a big deal of that. With statues and a happy hour every night where Zorro shows up and sings and dances. There was a tour group in town so I convinced Bill I NEEDED to see Zorro. So we went there for happy hour and got treated to songs and merriment. Kind of silly but fun. Another night we listened to the high school marching band practice in the plaza. (will add video at the end - just sound too dark to see.) The girls played the drums and the boys the horns. According to the guard right across the street at the municipal building – it’s the only place they can practice without disturbing a whole neighborhood. Of course we found a churro man. Every evening after five he sets up his equipment on the corner of Zaragoza and 16 de Septiembre. He had his big bowl of oil, only the best corn oil – he showed us the bottle, his big bottle of propane for the fire, a metal table with a canopy and a girl to cut the churros into pieces and roll them into the sugar mixture. They were sold by the bag full. They were delicious. He’s been making a living this way for 17 years. The Driver enjoying the churros We found a couple of good restaurants. One right downtown the General. Had beef tips with peppers and onions, Bill had arrachera, a think cut of steak cooked special. Both were delicious. Then we went back there another afternoon and found the tour group there. Much to our delight the restaurant put on a show for them and we got to watch. Beautiful young women from the village came out in costumes that told stories about Mexico, the beaches, the agriculture, the culture. Really nice. The other restaurant we went to after the boat ride. It is right on the river. From our seats we could men in boats setting out their langostinos de aqua dulce, crawdad, traps. We had a specialty of the region; Lobina – bass – stuffed with bacon and cheese. It was pretty good, except we couldn’t taste the fish at all. Two different nights while we were walking around town we found Christmas processions. Mary on a burro with Joseph leading her. Three Kings, angels, peasants, devils and people walking behind with candles. All in costume. The second one was quite elaborate. There was a truck with musicians and at one corner they stopped and put on a whole play about Mary, the devils and the angels and the peasants. Then on to knock on doors looking for a place to stay. As they passed by homes people would come out and sing with them. Both nights we followed them and were made to feel that we belonged there. Another afternoon there was quite an event put on in the plaza by a local radio station. A couple of different groups playing music and singing. At this event there was a raffle – a couple of the things raffled off were – baby clothes and a chicken. Never did figure out what they meant by a chicken. Live? A dinner? From a grocery store? Everyone had fun. Just noticed this - old arches but check out the light bulbs - new energy saving ones As we drove by the schools Friday the children were out in the yards with piñatas – a Christmas tradition. Just a couple of the people we met in El Fuerte Well didn't really met him And then our stay there was over – sure glad we went. On the road towards the beach again.

Video of the marching band - no view just sound! Hear why they practice in the plaza.