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We are traveling in Mexico again this winter of 2012
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Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Hidalgo, MX - back in the USA

We are now in McAllen, TX – and just remembered it is Saint Patrick’s Day – Will continue to write about Mexico until I’ve caught up.
We left Guadalajara at 8:45 and got in Guanajuato at 1:15 – 176 miles –US$62 for tolls. They are really adding up. But the road was very good all the way. Managed to get out of Guadalajara without getting lost. Actually got all the way here without incident.
The altitude here might be a problem over 6200 feet. But there is a great breeze
The campground, the only one in the area, is about US$12 a day. 15amp electricity – kind of and no sewer. The electric is so bad our air conditioner won’t stay on. And it takes almost three minutes to heat a small cup of coffee in the microwave. But the weather during the day is nice and there is usually a wind by late afternoon. Evenings it gets really cold still. But there is a dump and we do have water. There are about 7 other RVs here this time. Mostly Canadian 5th wheels. Basically we’re sitting in a big field with one lone tree. But this time the grass is green, last year it was dead.
Didn’t do much after getting here Wednesday – slowly getting used to altitude. First morning here it was COLD – in fact it almost looked like frost on the grass (probably just dew but I didn’t go out to check.) Looked at the outside temp and at 7:30 it was only 45!

We’ve been watching movies almost every night. One was the one Sandra Bullock won the Oscar for – enjoyed it. Think this is the first time in years I’ve seen any movie that won an Oscar. Also saw Last Chance Harvey and last night a Richard Geer movie about a dog – real tear jerker.
I’m spending time working on my web page for this year trying to get it caught up. Then when we get somewhere with Internet I’ll just have to upload it.
Our fourth day in Guanajuato, counting the day we got here and we hadn’t been into town yet! The first full day here we went to Hidalgo. The second to León and the 3rd we just stayed in the campground and caught our breath.
And we are starting to talk about getting home – actually looking for the shortest route and quickest into a lower altitude. We were going to another old Colonial town until we discovered it was 8200 feet high….maybe next time – we’ll start out there.
The trip to Hidalgo was over the mountains about 40 miles that takes about an hour in Willie. Get up to almost 9000 feet. It’s a pretty drive lots of trees and a couple of small villages. And the occasional lone house sitting high up on a ridge. The leaves on the trees are still orange and yellow and falling off – feels like fall instead of almost spring. Yet others have their bright new leaves already.
Parked right down on the main plaza in town. There are a lot of changes since we were here last year. They are really preparing for the big Independence Bicentennial in September. Hidalgo is where it all began. The Padre Hidalgo called to the peasants to over throw the Spanish and off they went.
This lady was standing outside the government building.
The building itself is from the 1600s – she didn’t look much younger.
The church where Hidalgo made delivered his call for revolution.
Last year they were working on cleaning the outside this year the inside is being fixed up. There are three altars in it. The main one and one on each side.
One side one is all carved wood.
Very intricate. The other is gold.

One of the things they are restoring is all the gold work. It is all gold leaf (we thought it was paint – nope.) Just one section of the wall that was being worked on –it was about half finished – took over 2000 packages of gold leaf. Very expensive restoration, but it is worth it.

All the exteriors of the buildings around the downtown district are being repaired and repainted. Looks very nice. Except there is an awful lot of pink and orange being used.
The streets just off the main plaza are being repaved – by hand! We watched them for awhile. At first we thought they were using half bricks – but in reality they are using stones – hand cut to size. Wet cement, from a wheel barrel, goes into a mold then the stones are put in one by one. Will look really nice, but be bumpy as heck to drive on.
The rocks - hand cut
Trimming a rock to fit
Placing the rocks (pavers) in cement
What it looks like finished

We stopped at the tile factory we bought the dishes at last year but got of there without buying anything this time. There were five people in the back painting various items. And the area they work in is so dark; don’t know how they manage it. Would you like a “Day of the Dead” bathroom sink? They have one available.

We stopped for lunch at a very nice restaurant

by the church and thought about buying some ice cream from the vendors after but didn’t. Some of the flavors were: tequila, whisky, chili, beer, corn, avocado, mole and of course the standards. Couldn’t decide what exotic flavor I wanted so didn’t get any. Lots of flavors.

Okay so I’m chicken.
Visited the dining room set we saw and fell in love with last year.

So gorgeous! Maybe enclose the back porch????
Walked through the Central Market and the only thing we bought were churros. Then back up to watch the guys doing the street.
On the way out of town we stopped at a manufacture of pottery and The Driver got some lizards for him to bead – This Winter When We Stay Home.
Walked out of there to get back in the car and jumped out of my skin when I got a BAA – right in my ear. A pickup with a couple of sheep in it was parked right by us. Never know what you’ll see here. That’s the fun of being here.
This laptop is really starting to give me problems. The “w” doesn’t always want to work, the “s” is worn off and now I discovered the battery isn’t any good. Says it’s 100% charged and when unplugged shuts off in less than 10 minutes “Out of Power.” CRAP!
So any way will continue this tomorrow - Still need to write about Leon and Guanajuato and trip home. Later.....

Tuesday, March 9, 2010

Goodbye Guadalajara - It was fun

So that’s how we’ve spent part of our time here. There of course are more old buildings but I’ll spare you. Did discover something interesting. In the Plaza de Armas across from the Cathedral is a gazebo brought from Paris in the 19th century. The roof of it is supported by columns of naked women – I wonder if the gazebo we saw in Santiago Ixcuintla is a copy of it.
Around the main downtown area a lot of the streets appear to be walking streets only. I say appear because delivery vehicles can use them. And all the streets downtown are one way. Everything from very modern department stores to little 10 x 12 stores selling trinkets. One thing every store except the big department stores have in common – they are very dark inside. Electricity is very expensive so lights are nonexistent or on very low. Sometimes the proprietor will turn the lights up if you are interested in buying. There are a lot of stores selling Baptismal and Communion dresses. These stores also sell lots of rhinestone tiaras. In my entire life put together I’ve never seen so many tiaras. Lots of yardage stores and stores selling trims for clothing. One of the biggest Michaels we’ve been in is here. Two floors filled with anything you could want for crafts. It isn’t called Michaels but is Miguel’s –
And here there are a lot of Chinese restaurants – seems like there is at least one on every block. But a little different than Panda Express. Some how I just can’t eat anything that is looking back at me – like the shrimp and fish they serve. Ick.
We found one place almost a quarter city block and two floors in size that was full of small stalls selling electronics – lots of cell phones, cameras (even found my battery – about twice the price of in the US – didn’t get it), computer parts, stereos – you name it it could be found there somewhere. And the place was packed.
In the streets were kiosks selling everything from ice cream to jewelry. Ice cream is a big seller here – seems like almost everyone is slurping on a cone – usually chocolate covered.
Lots of street musicians. Saw one group singing for a small café in the parking garage. The next day there was a xylophone player there. Have seen a couple of mimes – one was all blue dressed like the Mexican comedian Cantinflas. Bill was surprised I’d recognized him.
We also found a couple of places that sold the beads like the Huichol use for their crafts. Visited them a couple of times. One of us is going to have to do an awful lot of beading in the next couple of years.
Yesterday we went to a Huichol Museum in the Zapopon area of Guadalajara. There is a basilica there too. And lots of beggars – more than I’ve seen anywhere else. Couldn’t take any pictures of the inside of the church as there were continuous Masses going on. Just remembered this is Lent.
Today, our last day here, we got the propane tank filled and went to the really nice Mega supermarket across the street. They are beautiful places and have lots of good stuff in them.
We’re going to Guanajuato tomorrow so will be without much of any thing while we are there. Don’t think the cell phone even works there – unless maybe right in town. Then the next campground will be in Quéretaro. There is Wi-fi there in the restaurant.
So until then …….

Guadalajara History

Thinking about the movie we watched last night. I’m kind of like Julie – I wonder if anyone does read this blog or am I just talking to myself. That’s okay as I do that all the time anyway.
More about Guadalajara – don’t know where to start. Think I’ve said enough about the campground. The weather has been good, very cool at night and in low 80s during the3 day. The altitude of 5300 has bothered me some days, especially when the smog is heavy. And I found out – if I eat and then walk around it bothers me more, get somewhat out of breath. So now eat when we get home. The traffic is very heavy all over. No matter what street you are on. But now we kind of know our way around and have found easier ways into and out of the Centro district. Also know where there are a couple of convenient parking garages.
Right down town are several Plazas, government buildings and old buildings. Guadalajara has been more the religious center of Mexico so there are LOTS of churches. We’ve been to several and haven’t even scratched the surface.
Guess I’ll start with the Metropolitan Cathedral with its twin yellow tile towers.
Can you imagine putting this tile up there?
It’s construction started in 1561 ordered by King Philip II of Spain. It has undergone several changes through the years, but reflects the cultural aspect of the 18th Century. It has a mixture of styles the renaissance on the façade – 1618. The present towers with their twin needle for with the yellow tiles were built in the 19th century after two earthquakes destroyed part of the church. Inside it is beautiful.


Then we visited a couple more churches a few blocks away. These were built by the Fransciscans. One of them San Francisco was actually the first church built in the town – before the Cathedral. Construction began in 1580 and throughout the years there has been much remodeling as you can see in the picture. The interior is very subdued and classic.
Then we crossed the street to the Templo de Aranzazú.
The exterior is very simple but the interior is very elaborate. With golden churrigueresque altarpieces. This is a portion of the ceiling.
One of the three altars
Closer look.
It was built between 1749-52. Just a couple of pictures of it. We could have stayed there and just looked for a long time. But wanted to get to the Palacio de Gobierno to see the Mural by Orozco of Padre Miguel Hidalgo. (Just one of my weird thoughts – in every statue or mural of Hidalgo we’ve seen is is a really mean looking man.)
The building was finished in 1790. Gobierno Palacio
The inside of the building
Just a very small part of the mural of Hidalgo by Orozco
This was the second building built on this site, but the first deteriorated so much over a hundred years the new one had to be built. It was started in 1759 but construction was delayed because the Spanish government prohibited the manufacture of alcoholic beverages in Mexico so the country lost the income from the taxes on Mescal and had to postpone completing the building.
In the same area is the Teatro Degollado.
Again I’m at a loss for words to describe it.It was built between 1856-1866. It has 1453 seats.
The painting on the ceiling.
The glass ceiling in the lobby
The seats
The stage - there was a ballet rehearsal going on

I could go on and on about the buildings there. But think this can give you an idea of what can be seen here. Surrounding all these buildings are lots of plazas with fountains, statutes and gazebos. And there is always something going on in them.