Return to Guanajuato

Just a little refresher on the Guanajuato. It was founded in 1554 and is located in one of the richest silver mining areas of Mexico. It was originally built over the river of the same name which flowed through tunnels underneath the city. After years of raising buildings to accommodate yearly flooding a dam was built and the river redirected into underground caverns. The tunnels were then lit and paved with cobblestones for automobile traffic, and this underground road network carries the majority of cars driving through the city today.

Actually I think that the old buildings we can see along the road

and the colorful houses built on the hills surrounding the center of town are the attraction. Who wouldn’t enjoy seeing them. Just like a postcard picture.
Off we went heading towards the parking lot right in the middle of town near the big theater. But somehow managed to take a wrong turn – actually that’s not too hard when going through the tunnels. We were heading up one of the hills. The road got narrower and rougher. The corners sharper.
Yes - I was hanging on to the "Oh S**T" bar.
So The Driver made sure we headed down hill. Soon we were back on the level and into the tunnels again. The houses built on the top of the tunnel walls fascinate me. Some are built out on stilts others flush with the walls.

What the heck? Great! we turned a corner and were behind a group of bicyclists on a Sunday ride. A motorcycle cop with his lights on kept the traffic behind them.


We were the first car behind the cop driving at five mps! And then missed the turn to tunnel leading to the parking lot. Crap. All we could do was keep going until we were out of the tunnel and the bikes pulled over.
We had a couple of choices straight ahead or to the right …. Hesitation. A young man came running over to us. Bill rolled down his window to ask directions – by now the horns behind us were honking and the cop was staring at us. In very good English the young man asked if we were looking for parking. “Yes, the one behind the theater.” “Okay, I’ll take you” he said as he jumped up on the VERY narrow running board and grabbed the roof rack. “Back up and go right. Keep going right.” Off we went with him hanging on and Bill being very careful not to scrape him up against a tunnel wall. Through the tunnels and through the streets back into the tunnels – always right, right. We made a big circle and finally came to the turn off. He took us right to the parking lot and even found us a space. Really neat guy.
Walked up to the plaza past one of the old churches – and this time noticed this old “door” with steps on the side of the building.
You can also see where there was a window at one time.
Always something different to see. Continued towards the plaza and saw these paintings – only US$20 with frame – yes we did. Just like the texture and colors.

Lots of families and vendors around.

The little plastic toys are all over - every kid has one.
Lots of great buildings with iron balconies and bright colors

and fountains around. Flowers hanging from the iron window boxes and balconies

And always the shoe shine men.
As we were walking towards one of the huge churches we passed this Priest and his altar boys.
This church was all covered with scaffolding last year when we were here – Didn’t realize it was so pretty and intricate.

The courtyard of the church was packed. Six or seven tables with blue plastic tarps over them were set up. Behind them were whole families, from the babies to grandmas selling everything from cakes to tacos and rosaries.

Inside the church a mass was going on and the choir was singing.

Just blah blah

Finished the post for Leon but wanted to keep up with what we’re doing also.
We drove from Queretaro to McAllen, TX in one marathon run. 570 miles took about 10 hours. The Driver says that’s like driving 1000 miles on US roads. It took US$115 for the toll roads. But the roads were very good. For that rice they better be. But as usual there were the goats, burros and cows wandering on the shoulders and center divider. Even a few topes near sharp curves. They sure get your attention.
This time no problems crossing the borders. Found the Pharr International Bridge just outside of Reynosa. Some bad traffic going through the outskirts of Reynosa – there was an accident – once past it it was smooth sailing. Turned in our vehicle permits – for some reason they didn’t take the tourist cards – I think that is an oops and maybe we’d better go turn them in in the next day or two. Then we had to pay a toll to cross the bridge.
Getting into the US was fine. Two different guys came in and checked the refrigerator. All they found was cooked bacon, Italian sausage and hard boiled eggs. We ate the last apple on the way there.
We are at the same RV park that we always stay at. Good Wi-Fi and a laundry that we have to make use of soon. Its nice to have electricity we can depend on. Got the Direct TV turned back on so now we can watch news (ugh) and NASCAR racing (yes)
Went out to dinner as soon as we were parked. Both of us wanted a good steak. We went to Applebee’s – The place was almost empty yet it took 20 minutes to get a waiter, another 15 minutes to get our drinks and an hour to get our food. Steak was good. But otherwise rather a disappointment as far as service was concerned.
Went to Wal*Mart the next day and got a bunch of books and a beading magazine Hooray! Then walked around a great mall here in town. Didn’t do much else as Bill has a bad cold. At least it waited until we were here. He is really under the weather.
We are both glad to be back in the USofA.
One thing I didn’t mention is the fact that there is a 16% tax on EVERYTHING – from groceries, restaurants, clothes and the tolls on the road just to mention a few things.
Gasoline and diesel went up three times while we were there. The campgrounds that have full facilities are about as expensive as in the US – US$ 25 to 30 a day.
For the time we spent in Mexico we averaged $64 a day for all expenses. Did not include the beads we bought in that amount. Jennie was fine – averaged about 7 mpg. Lots of high altitude driving. We had no problems of any kind with her.
We plan on taking our time going home, don’t know when we’ll leave here – but not until he is feeling really good.
Our time in Leon follows this. And still have to finish Guanajuato and Queretaro. Should keep me busy for awhile.

Leon- old meets modern

Going back to Mexico trying to catch up on what we did there.
We took another day trip out of Guanajuato to the city of León about 40 miles up the road we came in on. It’s the 5th largest city in Mexico. And it is one of the most modern looking (read – looks like being in the US) towns we’ve been to. León was founded in 1575 – but little remains of that time. We saw the many contrasts that exist in the city, beautiful colonial buildings next to modern architecture. Lots of wide boulevards. Coming into the town we were on a wide four-lane divided street full of US stores and restaurants. If some one just dropped you on the street you would have thought you were in the southwestern US somewhere.
As we continued towards the central older part of town we passed one of the biggest Cathedrals we’ve seen. And it is quite new and amazing looking. Its full name is the Sanctuary of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. Construction of this temple was begun in 1920 and has continued off and on and now is considered 80% complete.
Unfortunately we didn’t stop and tour it.
We reached the Centro Historic and parked in a lot – walking the couple of blocks to the main plaza. There were still buildings there from the 16th Century but right next to a very old building would be a modern one. Kind of jarring to see. One thing that impressed us about the main plaza were the trees. Most of them were shaped into boxes or cones.
From there we walked up the narrow pedestrian street to the Cathedral. On the way we passed a Burger King and a KFC and numerous small restaurants – including an Argentine one along with the small taco stands and the Chinese restaurants. Even a Victoria’s Secret! Also saw a stained glass store with this glass piece of a Pope.
And this older man walking around with his guitar on his back.
The Cathedral, was awe inspiring. It is called the Basilica Cathedral of Our Holy Mother of the Light. Construction began in 1746, but was halted when the Jesuit order was expelled from Mexico. A very wealthy family took over its construction and it was finally completed in 1866. It has a combination of architectural styles – Baroque and Neo Classic.
Just inside the arch in the courtyard is a statue of one of the Popes. The inside of the church is absolutely beautiful.


Lots of large very old paintings, lots of gold leaf columns and arches and stained glass windows. Arched ceilings and gold chandeliers. Hand painted decorations on the walls highlighted by gold leaf. It has a very peaceful feel to it. Spent quite a bit of time just looking around.
This building was across the street from the church

Walked around the block and took this picture of the church - new construction going on.

Back to the main plaza, called Martyrs Square. The shaped trees and ballons for sale.There was another smaller church here – again amazing inside – lots of hand painted decorations on the walls and ceiling.
On the same side as this church is the Municipal Palace.
At one time in the mid 1800s it was used as a military barracks. Don’t know why we didn’t go in but we didn’t. Around the buildings on one side of the plaza are arched walkways. And narrow alleys that are full of small stores. Over these “alleys” the buildings connect forming an enclosed bridge giving kind of a European feeling to the section.
While here we saw a strange, at least to us, happening. There were several people, one a women the rest men, who were conduction a “purifying” ceremony of some sort. And people were lined up to be cleansed. The woman and the older man were dressed Huichol type clothing. Her in her long white skirt and blouse with rose colored trim, a wide brimmed straw hat from which her long, curley black hair streamed down her back. The older man had on a typical Huichol outfit with the embroidered trim and bag. He had a full gray beard and long black hair. To me none of them looked Huichol – they looked more “new age hippy.” Anyway they had a big incense holder and would pass it over and around the person wishing to be purified. Don’t know if money exchanged hands or not.

But it was interesting to watch. And you could see and smell the smoke as soon as you entered the plaza.
As we were walking towards the car The Driver had an encounter with some teenage girls. They stopped him to talk to him. In both English and Spanish – I think there was a little flirting going on but he says No.
Back in the car we drove to the “Leather District.” Wow! Over 35 square blocks of manufactures, warehouses, outlets and stores. Huge square block sized stores of leather merchandise. Everything from little leather saddle key chains to leather coats – men’s and women’s – all sizes shapes and colors. Whole buildings full of purses. Have never seen so many sizes, shapes and colors of purses in my life. Others full of boots or belts. This was an oversized boot for advertising.
One small stand selling purses

I read that over 60% of the shoes produced in Mexico are made here in León.
As we were nearing leaving one of the stores we heard loud drum beats. As we got outside we saw: a man playing the drum, one guy with a cloth and leather bulls head over his head, a woman dressed as a witch, a guy dressed as the devil who was lashing out with a bull whip and another guy dressed in black. They were dancing in the street to the drum beat. No idea what that was all about. But it was fun to watch.After being leathered out we went to the grocery store that was right next to Costco and across from Home Depot.
One thing we noticed was the rapid transit system. The big busses have their own lanes with passenger boarding from the center of the street.
We just touched the tip of the city.